RE: Traveling with the Dog
Tie the dogs to the roof of the TT. There's some folks on this forum (even the so called experts) who feel that a TT behind a Tow Vehicle creates no "wind drag". Thus, tie the dogs on the roof of the TT and see if "their hair flies". And best part of all, they get no hair inside their TV or TT either.
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RE: Replacing my converter. What one should I buy?
re: Progressive 45A - - Click Here -
The factory converter within my previous 19ft Prowler blew. Can't remember the exact AMP model but its 12V ports suddenly stopped working. I replaced with Progressive 45A (if I remember its exact amp load correctly). I simply removed its defective converter and installed the new replacement, doubled checked its onboard fuses and "plug its 110/120 plug in". Worked great since day one. Its fan was super quiet and its overall base was much smaller - then previous same amp model.
Hope this helps - some how...
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RE: Trip Report: 2006 Honda Odyssey w/Jayco 17C
Forgot to mention....
I'd avoid air shocks. Air shocks cannot take repeated abuse of up/down movements. Especially when pulling a trailer at the same time. Instead, go with Timbren SES units, Air bags or ???? Worth calling a few Auto suspension shops in your area and inquire what they recommend - for your specific mini-van.
When pulling at TT or near the max loads of the tow vehicle, do install a tranny temp guage. With a guage, one can proactively learn how hills, extra wind drag, stop/go driving, etc. etc. road conditions impact your Honda. If I had limited dollars, I would install a tranny temp guage first. If you discover that your Honda needs more "tranny cooling", then install aux tranny cooling system later. Many say that LPD (Low Pressure Drop) Design is the best Aux cooler design. Great for both hot summer and cold winter adjustments. But for now, I'd get your local auto shop to install a simple tranny temp guage - and proactively use it.
Hope these items help as well....
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RE: Trip Report: 2006 Honda Odyssey w/Jayco 17C
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I would agree. When pulling a TT with a mini-van, do remember to pack light and be aware of extra "wind resistance" drag. One can exceed the limits of a mini-van's 3,500 lbs "pulling power" very quickly. Thus, blow tranny and other drive system parts. Some people fail to see the concerns in these areas.
To reduce rear sag, may I suggest buying/install a properly sized WD system. If your "average loaded" trailer weighs 3,500 lbs, then get a WD system that is sized for $3,500 x 12% (or, approx 400-450 lbs range). If your mini-van has rear sag when its "average loaded" (but NOT connected to the trailer), then install Timbrens SES units in the rear. I have Timbrens SES 2,000 lbs in the rear of my tow vehicle (which is a larger mini-van) and use a WD system as well. Both work great in the same vehicle.
For more details on Timbrens SES units, surf: http://www.timbren.com/ses-van-suv.htm
Overall, it sounds like you have a comfortable combo. Something that you are comfortable with. Good opening post.
Good luck!!!
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RE: Mini Van Towing for 'Lite' Trailers ??? HELP ???
Hi guys...
my next vehicle will be a mini-van. I will drive it like a FWD vehicle (like my my current FWD "run about" vehicle) and I will talk to it very nicely as well. However, I do know that before using my FWD mini-van for towing, I will ask many different auto shops. No, not the RV sales reps. Or, the auto sales reps either. They will sell ice cubs to an eskimo - if they could. I will ask my 3 local auto mechanics and many other Auto mechanics as well. Will my "chosen" FWD mini-van pull my trailer? How much impact is its Wind Drag and how much internal cargo can I also have inside my mini-van at the same time??? If the guy is biased, he's say his Freestar van can pull a 4,000lbs at 90 mph up a 6% grade. Or as I once read, its the best towing vehicle they ever made - Ford hasn't realized it yet. But the honest folks will say - that brand is weak on its front wheel drive system. Or, has a weak tranny. Or, that brand doesn't like OD gear. Or, that brand chews up front brakes when towing. Forget about the "sales reps". Go ask your mechanics. I asked my mechanic and he told me, my specific brand of FWD cross-over will blow apart - if I use it for towing. And the mini-van I had to mind - to replace my Safari/Astro will blow apart as well. And so will 2 other brands mentioned in the above posts as well. But I won't mention those brands - because it would start another email frenzie from a biased poster. Seriously, ask lots of mechanics on incident of repairs and what conditions their drive systems broke. You'd be surprised on what you learn - from the folks who fix them day in and day out (not from the folks who sell them).
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RE: Mini Van Towing for 'Lite' Trailers ??? HELP ???
Like I said, FWD van's for towing above 3,000 lbs "average loaded" trailers don't cut in within my books. Seen too my FWD vans towing PUPS get stuck at my camp site. Definately would not want to use a FWD tow vehicle for pulling TT's either. Watching folks with FWD van's pull their boat trailer's out of the water is a joke as well. Are yo sure you want to use your Freestar van to pull a boat out of water, a PU in the mud or a "wind wall" TT on wet camp ground grass???
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RE: Lt tires
My previous Tow Vehicle had LT tires. I loved them. Tigher on the corners, less roll and less squash feeling when towing. However, my wife felt that LT tires ran a little too rough. Especially across the little bumps.
Our same design (but newer year) replacement vehicle has "P" tires. My wife loves their smoother ride. For me, I find they have some roll in the tight corners. Especially when pulling a trailer.
With this in mind, use the majority rules thing. If you tow our haul most of the time, go with LT tires. If you haul passengers or ride empty most of the time, go with "P" tires. As mentioned above, go with great quality "P" tires - to meet both needs in the middle. My father has "P" tires on his large Chev 250 4x4 and it "works for him". Then again, he's yet to pull even near his truck's max towing or onboard cargo weight.
Hope this helps as well...
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RE: Mini Van Towing for 'Lite' Trailers ??? HELP ???
Take a normal vehicle (mini van or not) and "load up" with passengers and rear cargo. Let's say average of 2 adults (200 lbs each ) and 2 kids (150 lbs each). That's 700 lbs. Let's take their normal camping gear that's transported inside the vehicle as well. Let's say 300 lbs. Are some folks on this forum trying to tell explain their their vehicle is rated to pull 3,500 lbs trailer "WITH" an additional 1,000 lbs inside the vehicle? Can it - possibly. Should you go over 1,000 lbs ???? I wouldn't. Especially with my priceless family members inside the vehicle at the same time.
Let's take a 3,500 lbs 4 x 8 utility trailer. Nicely tucked behind the Tow Vehicle. NO wind drag at all. Let's take a high wall Traval trailer and connect to the same Tow vehicle. Now. Drive this combo dow the hiway doing 60+ mph. Think of doing fast speeds and one holds a large sheet of playwood out the vehicle window. Talk about getting one's arms ripped off. How much "wind drag" is that travel trailer creating behind any tow vehicle? Does it have the same wind drag as compared to pulling a utility trailer (that is tucked behind the tow vehicle) that is 500 "real" lbs heavier? Bet it is. Don't ignore the facts. Wind drag on the hiways makes the travel trailer's weight `feel` 500-800 lbs heavier.
With this in mind, can your FWD vehicle rated to pull 3,500 lbs (for a 4x8 utility trailer tucked behind the vehicle) legally and "mechanical under max stress" pull a 5,000 lbs trailer? 1,000 lbs for internal vehicle cargo and 500 lbs of "feels like wind drag" additional weight? In the "real world", that vehicle is pulling more then its rated pull weight. Especially on windy days and vehicle is loaded down for the long trips.
Also... Salesman don't think "real world". They only think about "white board" worlds and how much profits they can make. As long as they can "make a sale", they's fudge the white board numbers into their favor. Sales folks do this - on purpose.
Something to think about...
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RE: Mini Van Towing for 'Lite' Trailers ??? HELP ???
The only van I would pull a 2,700 lbs dry (which is often 3,500-3,700 lbs loaded) trailer with is an Astro/Safari model. Or, upgrade to the Envoy with I6 4.2L engine.
For your current FWD vehicle: Take 3,500 lbs (rated max tow power of the Tow Vehicle), subtract internal vehicle cargo (200-300 lbs), subtract additional passenger body weight, subtract Wind Risistance (which is often "feels like" 500 lbs on a fast hiway, one will have estimated 2,000 lbs of remaining "pulling power". Not enough remaining pulling power to pull a 3,500 lbs "loaded" trailer. Especially a trailer that has wind resistance design like a cement flat block.
If wondering, I have a FWD cross-over vehicle with 3.4L engine. Its rated to pull 3,500 lbs. I talked to my local mechanic and he told me "no way". NO way can FWD van's handle pulling needs of any Travel trailer above 2,000 lbs. Especially when one's vehicle is often loaded down with people and usual camping supplies as well. And, one's Trailer trailer is loaded with basic supplies as well. Thus, why I don't even have a trailer hitch installed on my FWD vehicle. I use my Astro/Safari van to pull my trailers.
Note: I hear the Envoy XL with I6 engine can pull 2,000+ lbs travel trailers without wind drag or trailer over weight as well. They can pull 2K-5K trailers. Their I6 engine design have much more pulling power then 4.3L engines. And much more pulling power then a 3.4L engine.
Hope this helps...
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RE: Jayco
We have a 2006 Jayco JayFlight 29FBS. Only item was that its hot/cold piping (from its sink outwards) was reversed. Hot tap was cold water and cold tap was hot water. Under its kitchen sink, I simply cut both water pipes, flipped their pipes around, and turned the water back ON. Its been working great ever since. From a greater picture perspective, never had any other issues. Its been my "wife's baby" since day 1.
Hope this helps - some how...
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RE: diabetic supplies
For my "used" lancets, I put them into a large bowl - that has a sealed lid. The next time I visit my doctor, I bring along my large bowl. The nurse empties my bowl into her needle recylcing bin. Then, returns my empty bowl. Then, I start the cycle over again.
For my used "test strips", I put them into a much smaller container - that has a sealed lid. Its more like a small butter container package. When it becomes too full, I simply wrap with DUC tape and put into my normal garbage.
For "unused" lancets and test strips you now longer need, may I suggest you contact a few medical centers in your region. Ask how you can donate (if that's a proper word) or dispose of your unused "D" supplies. Donate because some "D" folks need these supples but cannot financially afford them. Sometimes, a few clinics "unofficially" redistribute unused supplies. Legally, don't think this can be done but some medical centers help the less fortunate ib other ways as well - if you know what I mean. Or, they may simply advise you to dispose the unused (and unwanted) supplies in the normal garbage bag trash.
Hope this helps...
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ABC 20/20 on Tire age - we'll worth reading...
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I was going to post this "info share" in the tow vehicle or other RV/Trailer sub forums. Then, I realized this safety issue also applies to normal passgener tires and even tires on one's Boat, PUP, TT, Utility, etc. trailers. Thus, "in the camp fire" section - to ensure all folks are aware of this item.
For more details, surf: http://abcnews.go.com/Video/playerIndex?id=4826897
Note: Must get past the advertising clip to view the ABC 20/20 video.
If wondering, the tires on both our vehicles. They have 2305, 1806 and 1708 stamped on the tires. My vehicle's tires are still safe - within the recommended "less then 6 years of life" recommendation.
Hope this info share saves a few lives....
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RE: GM - current business status
To me, GMC quality has gone "down hill" during the last 10 years. Especially the last 5 years. They still put too weak of wheel bearings in their FWD vehicles, their vehicles have too many electrical problems, their vehicles are built too heavy and compared to other auto makers, their vehicles get terrible MPGs. Their average sedan can't even compare to the average sedan size of its compitition. I've bought GMC most of my adult life (still have 2 GMs "on the road"). And year after year, I experience weaker deign problems year after year - which converts to expesnive TCO (Total Cost of Ownership). To me, my next vehicle will NOT be a GM. They simply don't see their own mistakes and have forced me to look at their compitition. .
I don't agree. I have two GM's, bought new in 2007 and they are excellent. The Buick tied with Lexus for #1 among all cars in JD Power's quality rating. I think Cadillac was # 2 or 3. So ar both our new Buick and Pontiac after a year + of ownership are running fine, with very little in the way of problems. We have about 25K worth of mileage on both.
Our Buick sedan with the Buick 3800 V6 gets 21-23 mpg (Cdn. gallon) in the city and 34 -38 in the country. The full size GM pickup with the 4.8 V8 has , I believe the highest mpg rating for a V8, full sized truck.
Like i said, the "junk" GM vehicles of today's "average driver" don't even come close to the quality GM had 10-20-25 years ago. Back then, a GM quality ment something. Today, it means nothing. Nothind but marketing fluff.
BS you think??? Don't believe me???? Perform a simple "GM Class action law suits" search and you'll find tons of cases about weak front wheel bearings, under designed electrical systems, under designed brakes, known intake leaks and lots of other problems. Especially in the Buick RDV models, Uplander, Venture, and Montona van models. Or, simply visit a few of your local experienced mechanics and ask them the known flaws on each vehicle brand. Each of them will state (based on known repair volumes) what GM brand of vehilce has the design flaws. Especially in the GMC SUV, mini-van markets. Junk!!!!
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RE: Electric Brakes
If you install the 7 pin connector, you might want to run a "live wire" into the 7 Pin plug as well. Thus, allow your Tow Vehicle to "charge up" the Trailer's onboard battery - when connected to the Tow Vehicle. Ensure proper breakers are used with this live wire as well.
is this a usual thing to do or a cautious thing to do?
For my Tow vehicle, I had to pull 2 live wires from its engine compartment area to its rear bumper area. If I pull 2 wires under the vehicle, one can include an additional wire as well. Thus, all 3 wires are pulled in at the same time.
- 1 wire for "12V" live. Going from Trailer's onboard live battery to Tow Vehicle's ACC fused box. When the TV's ignition key is on, the TV's battery is also charging (trickle charging) the Trailer's onboard battery. Some hook this wire to the TV's battery but to me, this wire should only be live when the TV's ignition key is ON.
- 1 wire for Brake Controller wire. To reduce loss of power, use a thick 10 guage wire.
- When pulling / securing 2 x 10 guage wires under their TV, some folks pull include 3rd 10 guage wire as well. They also connect this wire to the TV's ACC fused box. They install a simple off/on toggle switch some where inside their TV. For example, in the dash area. They can also install an additional "easy access" fuse. This wire is connected to the middle pin of their TV's 7 pin connector. Install some 12V clear lens utility lights under the rear bumper of their PUP. When they need more lighting behind their PUP, the TV driver simply flips the switch. Once the PUP is backed into position, the driver flips the switch to off. And if needed, remove the "easy access" fuse. Thus, stop a kid from flipping this manual switch off/on - and blinding a rear following person on the hiway.
If wondering, I installed extra reverse lights on my Vehicle - using the above approach. When I need more lighing behind my vehicle (like backup up my dark country driveway), I simply "flip the switch". My extra reverse lights are 2 x low profile clear lens fog lights with 55W H3 bulbs. Works great. Same approach can be used to install extra lighting behind one's PUP (utility or TT) trailer as well...
Hope this helps as well...
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RE: Thinking of getting a PUP - have questions
Thank you everyone for your responses. We did a little more looking tonight and decided that we're REALLY going to have to look for an ultra lite PUP that's in our price range. I haven't thought of any more questions yet, but, I may come up with more by tomorrow.
Good to know that a PUP could survive an F3 tornado though! I hope I never have to experience that to find out :)
When looking for a PUP (even a light weight PUP), do get one with onboard brakes. To me, electric brakes are the best. Many sales reps will state that a PUP doesn't need brakes. If pulling with an Escape that'a already loaded with its own onboard rear cargo, an attached PUP needs brakes. The extra stopping power on onboard trailer brakes are well worth it.
If your Ford Escape has rear sag when your "loaded" PUP is connected, do look at the Timbren SES unit for your Tow Vehicle. If wondering, I have Timbren SES units (which are like air bags without pressurized air inside them) on my Tow Vehicle. Love them since day one. For more details on this product, surf: http://www.timbren.com/ses-van-suv.htm
Also, do ensure your Ford Escape gets a Class III hitch. Don't bother wasting one's dollars on a Class IV hitch. Getting the extra stronger Class III hitch installed is worth it. Might need an AUX cooler (LPD - Low Pressure Drop Design) installed in your Escape as well. Money well spent.
Hope this helps as well...
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RE: GM - current business status
To me, GMC quality has gone "down hill" during the last 10 years. Especially the last 5 years. They still put too weak of wheel bearings in their FWD vehicles, their vehicles have too many electrical problems, their vehicles are built too heavy and compared to other auto makers, their vehicles get terrible MPGs. Their average sedan can't even compare to the average sedan size of its compitition. I've bought GMC most of my adult life (still have 2 GMs "on the road"). And year after year, I experience weaker deign problems year after year - which converts to expesnive TCO (Total Cost of Ownership). To me, my next vehicle will NOT be a GM. They simply don't see their own mistakes and have forced me to look at their compitition.
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RE: Electric Brakes
A few things to keep in mind:
- One needs to install the 7 pin connector at the back of their Tow Vehicle.
- One needs to install a Brake Controller within their Tow Vehicle.
- Many do recommend Prodigy Brake Controller as one of the better brands / models on the Market.
- If you install the 7 pin connector, you might want to run a "live wire" into the 7 Pin plug as well. Thus, allow your Tow Vehicle to "charge up" the Trailer's onboard battery - when connected to the Tow Vehicle. Ensure proper breakers are used with this live wire as well.
- If you have Backup Lights on the Trailer (even simple clear lens utility lights under its rear corners of its bumper), you might want to install a special "manual switch" wire in the Center pole of the 7 pin connector as well. Within your Tow Vehicle, simply "flip the manual fused switch" (located within the TV's dash area) - to turn on the extra Reverse lights mounted on the rear of your Trailer. When these lights are not needed, simply pull its fuse.
BTW: Your local laws or the locations you plan to tow your Trailer many state that onboard trailer brakes are required for any trailer above 1,000 lbs. If so, you need working brakes on your trailer - regardless of what size of vehicle is towing it. Besides that, a trailer with its own onbard brakes stops much faster (when compared to NO brakes at all).
With the above in mind, 3 wires (recommend thick 10 guage wires) be run to the back of your Tow Vehicle. re: Brake Controller, live wire when TV's ignition key is ON and special Backup Lights wire.
Hope these items helps...
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RE: Wax?
Many different waxes on the market.
For me, I use "good old" turtle wax. Wax on / wax off with lots of elbow grease (sort of speaking). Works for my Trailer shine needs.
BTW: Get one of those 110/120 volt electric buffers. Especially if you plan to perform lots of wax on / wave off movements...
Hope this helps..
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RE: Picking up after your pets!!
I was confused at first, but I think I get it now. Thats why I support the "no pet" policy in campgrounds nationwide. Leave 'em at home!!
I agree. Pets should always be left at home - NOT at CG sites. If wondering, my family has pets. At times, one could put "local zoo" sign on our home's front door. Today, I still don't know why my wife wants so many different pets. To me, all pets need to stay "at home". Period!!!! When these pets die, that's it. NO MORE!!!!
And if wondering, I'd get rid of the dog before I puck up after it. Thus, explains why she walks that thing. If the dog doesn't pick up after me, then why am I forced to pickup after that dog. Get rid of the dog and problem solved.
So yes, the dogs, cats, birds, fish, rabbits, etc. etc. all stay at home. Period!!!!
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RE: More battery help...
Here's a few things to consider....
I hear that "deep cycle" batteries are best for RV/Boats. If your Jayco is using a normal auto battery, may I suggest upgrading to a "deep cycle" RV/Boat battery. And, do check its fluid levels every 7 days (until you learn the behavior of this much better battery).
The onboard battery on your trailer while being towing will only `charge up` (while being towed) if the auto/trailer connector is wired for it. If using a 7 pin plug, do ensure its 12V live wire is wired back to your trailer's battery. And, your Tow Vehicle is providing power to the 7 pin connector. On my Tow Vehicle, I had to get a thick 10 guage wire connected from my auto's Battery to my auto/trailer connector, to my trailer's onboard battery (with circuit breakers before each battery). At factory, my tow vehicle didn't have this special charge wire installed.
If camping at a CG site that has 110/120V service, I hear the trailer's onboard convertor is suppose to charge the onboard trailer battery. If this isn't happening, do check the fuses on the trailer's convertor. Could be a simple blown fuse.
If camping "bone dock" style for a few short days, one might want to invest into solor power battery chargers. I hear they work great as well. If campaing "bone dock" style for many consecutive days, one might want to get a generator. I hear Honda and Yamaha make super quiet generators. If 110/120V "power hungary" is needed, some even get parallel connected Honda generators. I hear they work great - especially for AC usage.
Hope these different ideas help....
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